The History of Northamptonshire Leather

Leather is the only industry present in every country in the world. As a by-product of the meat industry, man has been using and wearing leather since he began to hunt. Ancient civilisations developed the ability to make leather independently of each other. Pieces of leather have been found in Egyptian tombs dating from 1300BC.

Northamptonshire has a very long connection with the production of leather and leathergoods. This was due not only to our proximity to water and a plentiful supply of oak bark (both required for tanning in the early days), but the county’s location on the primary north, south, east, west trading routes through the UK. Until the later middle ages, Northampton was the second city of England which meant that many influential people of the time passed through Northampton either on their way to the castle or to one of the great houses nearby. This created a demand for good quality leathergoods in addition to the usual requirement for shoes, vessels, clothing and travel goods.

One of the earliest references to the production of footwear is a record from 1200 of a street of cordwainers in Northampton.

Do you have some local historical imagery you would like to share with us? Do please email info[att]northamptonshireleather.com

1200
A street of Cordwainers is registered in Northampton. A twin capital in the porch of Northampton Guildhall. © English Heritage.
1640s
Thomas Pendleton leads 13 Northampton shoemakers in gaining a contract to supply Cromwell's army with boots and shoes. © The British Library.
1656
Northampton adopts a constitution for the shoe trade. Victorian image of a 17th century shoemaker in the Northampton Guildhall. © English Heritage.
1880s
Terraced houses are built throughout the county with workshops for shoe workers. Workshop viewed through a 'jitty' in Kettering. © English Heritage.
1885
The Little Houghton shoemaker stitching in the welt. © Northampton Museum.
1890
The outwork department of Manfields about 1890. Workers' samples were known as occasioning shoes. © NCC / British Shoe Corporation.
1897
Northampton Town Football Club aka 'The Cobblers' is formed.
1900
Map of Northamptonshire around 1900 showing the major footwear and leather centres. © English Heritage.
1903
Sandy Walker and Henry Larner hand finishing army boots in Earls Barton 1903. The boots were sent from Rushden for out-finishing. © Northampton Museum.
1905
A rare commemorative handkerchief from the infamous Raunds Bootmakers' march, the first to reach Trafalgar Square. © J R Betts.
1909
Leathersellers Technical College formed (Now BSLT). © The Leathersellers Company.
1916
Smith & Foster's entry in the British Shoe and Leather Trades Directory 1916. Held by Northampton Central Library.
1917
Long Buckby boot men repair boots in the field. Around 45 million pairs of footwear were made in the county during the war . © Northampton Museum.
1920
Ladies in the closing room of the Union Co-operative Boot & Shoe Protective Society Ltd, Kettering. © Northampton Museum.
1922
'The World Seeks our Products' Stained glass doors in Hawkes' shoe factory Rushden illustrate the importance of the county's trade. © English Heritage.
1931
The innovative Pearce Leather Factory opens in Northampton. Fully self sufficient, it quickly achieved a worldwide reputation for quality. © Jayne West.
1938
First TV broadcast of the art of Leathercraft. This image shows a luggage maker from S Clark & Co. © The Museum of Leathercraft.
1939
Northamptonshire coat of arms adopted. The crest features dominant symbols that honour the leather tradition.
1953
SATRA of Kettering develop the innovative, water and frost proof boot that is worn by all members of Hillary's successful Everest expedition. © SATRA.
1956
By 1956 there were 12 tanneries in the county employing 1,518 people in total. © UKLF.
1960
1960 On 1 April 1960 (hence 'the 1460') the first Dr. Martens boot was produced in partnership with R Griggs shoemakers of Northamptonshire.
1976
The Leathersellers Technical College moves from London to Northampton and becomes the British School of Leather Technology. © University of Northampton.
1978
The Museum of Leathercraft moves to 60 Bridge St Northampton and the Leather Conservation Centre is established. © The Museum of Leathercraft.